![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:02 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Project Schwindler update.
Thank god, at least I’ll have something to show the bike shop when I order the new ones.
I noticed a creaking noise coming from the crank whenever I pedaled. So I opened it up and lo and behold! I can’t imagine these bearings not being cheap, so the Schwindler will stay with me to see another day.
Now I have a question that the answer will probably be NO to. Obviously I have to replace the bearings. I don’t have any general purpose grease, but I do have brake grease, the blue synthetic stuff to be exact. Would that be an acceptable substitute? I know grease it cheap, put I don’t wanna pay for $5 worth of grease I’ll only use a little of and I’ll forget about or loose the next time, if I can avoid it.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:08 |
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Most shops will use something like Park PPL-1 grease. This is good enough for your applications (I use this stuff on my bike parts) but any general purpose grease will be sufficient. Bottom bracket doesn’t get near the amount of friction and heat that a car hub will see, so grease choices are less relevant.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:10 |
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For reference, there are four key bearings on your bike that get grease: front and rear hub, bottom bracket, and headset. The pedals could be disassembled and greased, but at $15/pair it’s usually not worth rebuilding a pedal unless its a high end one.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:11 |
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When I was a kid I used to spray my hubs with WD40, they would roll well for a week or two then start sucking again. I couldn’t figure out why the bearings kept rusting. Grease is essential, even if cheap or not specific to the application.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:11 |
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is this about fidget spinners?
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:15 |
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Good tip. I’ll take a look at the headset soon. Also, I was told by the bike shop in Houston to replace the front wheel because the spokes were too rusty to adjust and they said the hub was shot. Should I do likewise with the rear or just re-grease/bearing the hub? Since it seems like most replacement wheels come with new hubs.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:15 |
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ha! that’s terrible.
...I did the same thing with my heeleys many moons ago.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:18 |
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Only if you’re into the crazy tricks.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:21 |
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Unless you’re looking to spend over $300 on a wheel, a pre-built one will come with a new rim laced to a new hub with new spokes. $50-80 is about entry for a new front only. Be sure that you get rimtape on it if you’ll be mounting your own tire.
If you’re looking to inspect the rear hub for similar conditions, remove it from the bike and firmly hold it while shaking the axle in/out, up/down, laterally, etc. Check for bearing play, spin the axle, if its crunchy or rattles, you may be able to replace the bearings. If the race (cast into the hub) is pitted or scored it’s probably best to get a new wheel. Be sure to specify dropout spacing and freehub or cassette. If unsure, just bring the old one into the shop to match.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 17:22 |
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As it seems that you’re in this one for the long haul and geniunely interested in keeping it running, this is a great book on basic bike maintenance. I highly recommend it:
https://www.velopress.com/books/zinn-the-art-of-mountain-bike-maintenance/
Might be cheaper online/locally, shop around.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 19:38 |
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Those bearings are super cheap. Some riders back in the day would use loose bearings instead of captured bearings. Taking the cage out gives enough room for an extra ball or two. They claimed they could feel the extra “smoothness.” I never did a side-by-side comparison, but I doubt two bearings make much of a difference.
Either way, your local shop should be able to sell you either captured or loose bearings.
![]() 07/07/2017 at 20:37 |
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Damn you! Beat me to it!
![]() 07/12/2017 at 12:44 |
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Get your BB sorted?
![]() 07/12/2017 at 12:53 |
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Yep, still haven’t gotten around to doing the back wheel yet. I’ll probably do it today though.